Back in the late-60s, a young and keenly resourceful Paul Smith charmed expert tailors in his hometown of Nottingham, with his knack of deviating from the norms, cutting one-of-a-kind clothes in unfamiliar fabrics: a pair of curtains would be transformed into a handmade two-piece suit, whereas floral dress fabrics would become dandyish shirts.
The restraint of traditional British sartorial codes is loosened with consistently elevated construction in the autumn/winter 2019 collection, as the Paul Smith brand revisits the designer’s spirit of self-expression.
An interpretation typical of the twisted classics Paul Smith is famed for, the 1930s British riding jacket in thick cavalry twill provided early inspiration for the collection, with its exaggerated proportions and modernised construction; what would’ve once been an 18oz British wool is substituted with a lighter weight Italian cotton and wool cloth, while other jackets feature a floating canvas finish for complete manoeuvrability.
First seen upon horse blankets during the 18th century, and later in flannel shirting, recoloured Tatersall checks are paired onto nylon outerwear, as posh and punk prints collide with cut and paste graphics and animal prints. The horseplay continues in the riding-inspired pieces of flight trousers and biker boots.
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