Alessandro Michele’s appointment not only heralds a new era at Gucci but also a new cast with him. Michele’s dreamy waif is a 180 from the hyper-masculinity that dominated both Tom Ford and Frida Giannini’s time at the label. You could probably describe this new boy as androgynous but lest you forget, it takes balls to rock a frilly chiffon blouse. He is Ziggy Stardust, Mick Jagger and Prince all rolled into one slender package. It’s the attitude that changes the perceptions of say a silk funnel neck top from Duckie Brown or Saint Laurent’s attenuated silhouette. This is a look that requires dedication and a whole lot of swag. Look at it this way, supermodel Iman didn’t marry Bowie for nothing.
Last fall we saw designers warming up to blankets, wrapping models every which way in constricting cocoons. This year we move to the other end of the spectrum with scarves that are slim and trailing. This can be attributed to the strong 70s’ influence that’s been seething through the season. Skinny scarves, favoured by glam rockers purely as ornamentation, shimmied and moved when they did, adding that bit of drama a performance entails. Saint Laurent’s candy cane striped version is worn looped once around the neck as with Gucci’s vermillion number. Paul Smith drapes his simply over the neck in stripes that echo that of a blown up neck tie. Bottega Veneta plays it subtle by knotting their ultra slim version at the neck like a kerchief, tucking it indifferently under a shirt.
Tomas Maier for Bottega Veneta described his guy as someone who doesn’t think about clothes. It would explain the odd pairings of sweats and a polo neck jumper under a pink corduroy peacoat. It’s the kind of outfit you might spot on someone who’s out for a milk run, but in its carelessness lies its charm. The concept of personal time in our age is truly a luxury and whats more luxurious than silk PJ’s in persimmon and fern coloured stripes from Dunhill paired with a jumper and over coat or Dries Van Noten’s padded coat perfect for the dude who’d never want to get out of bed. The Versace guy struts along in long johns and a hoodie finished in cashmere no less.
Dolce & Gabbana
Dries Van Noten