2018 was also a year where athleisure wear (lots of sweatpants and hoodies) and trainers – traditionally the comfortable garb of couch days or of grueling workout sessions at the gym – stepped into the light and became a fashion staple for both sexes.
Even the high and mighty Parisian fashion houses were eager to pair up with streetwear labels like Supreme, Off-white, and others to beef up their streetwear credentials.
That’s about to change. Spring-Summer showings from the upcoming season hint that we may be at the tail-end of the whole streetwear phenomenon. It was also a year of the big shake-up in the arena of menswear designers.
From Gucci to Ermenegildo Zegna Couture, Burberry, Celine, Bottega, Berlutti and more, here’s a quick rundown of the menswear trends you should pay attention to in Spring Summer 2019.
The Spring Summer menswear collection imagined by Jonathan Anderson and shot by famed photographer Duane Michals tells an intimate story of bohemian life. The collection is marked by bold colours and prints, characterised by childhood memories laced with botanical and geometric motifs like sea urchins and stained glass, cowrie shells and whelks, bandanas, and mythological lions. From bucket hats and suede hussar jackets to sackcloth shorts, the collection is bright, loud and playful.
02: Ermenegildo Zegna Couture
The Spring Summer installment is a collection with “shapes that are bold and voluminous, yet very light, in layers of meshes, wools, silks,” to quote Zegna artistic director Alessandro Sartori. The colour palette spans different shades and intensities of pale blue, Tropea pink, Bow Green, Desert, Sunflower Yellow, Mocha, Nautical blue, and Loganberry Red.
Sartori also created a new template for the suit with anoraks matched with tailored high-waisted double pleat trousers. Likewise for tailored jackets with cargo pants. Lightweight sport-inspired blousons in micro-nubuck and suede are paired off with tailored joggers. Scoop–neck silk sweaters replaced shirts under blazers – they are so impossibly light at just 200g.
The most recent edition of the Moncler’s SS19 Genius capsule collections, 5 Moncler Craig Green, works around notions of protection and performance. Taking cues from tents and kites, the collection captures the extreme in the hooded capes with strings, the dramatic, inhabitable shape highlighted by strong use of bold, high-contrast colours. Quilting and prints are fused in innovative ways in the kite surfing-inflected pieces.
Along with the 96 looks, spread equally between men and women, from the Spring Summer collection was a note to the editors: “The entire wardrobe worn by the male models is unisex, and therefore will also be available for women”.
The much-anticipated return of Hedi Slimane was met with mix reaction. The Spring/Summer composition by Slimane paid tribute to the music-club scene with familiar wide shoulder silhouettes from the 80s (think Yves Saint Laurent) emerging in jackets and coats in a muted palette.
According to Sarah Mower from Vogue, the “proposition will surely carry internationally, across young Hollywood and Asia, an appeal deliberately designed to speak to teens over the heads of elders.” There were also no traces of athleisure or sneakers – perhaps a sign to move on from your sweatpants and hoodies.
The Spring/Summer 2019 show titled “Kingdom” by Riccardo Tisci paid homage to the individuality, eccentricity and inimitable attitude of Britain. The collection – which was streamed on Instagram – is punctuated with more tailored pieces including smart trenches, parkas, modern suits, pinstripe suits, double-breasted jackets and dress pants reminiscent of the fine craftsmanship of Savile Row.
Miuccia Prada’s answer to streetwear fashion for the coming season is complete with colourful ensembles from vivid bold prints to bright acid tones, “mini-skirt” like shorts (a notable trend in SS19) to roll-neck sweaters, and denim blazers. Logos are less visible on the collection with a few small square embroidered logos seen of selected pieces. Knitted sneakers in varied colours are prevalent in Prada Uomo SS19 collection.
One of the most anticipated showings of the season is back with another extravagant show. After a one-season absence from the Milan Fashion Week, Gucci staged its return at Paris’ famed Théâtre Le Palace after. The glam factor of Alessandro Michele’s Spring Summer 2019 show was of the charts. The collection is peppered with elements from the 70s and references from a century of Parisian culture and nightlife. It’s finished with Alessandro Michele’s inimitable baroque design style.