Bell & Ross
Camouflage speaks of masculinity and to able to work with the military speaks of the highest standards in terms of durability and accuracy. As part of its pursuit of superior performance, Bell & Ross works regularly with French elite security units in order to craft high-grade watches that these personnel can depend upon. The new BR03-92 Black Camo represents another link in the Bell & Ross camouflage watch series, which previously included the BR 03-92 Phantom and the BR 03-92 Commando. For this model, the brand has developed an original military-type tricolour coating. Its dial is covered with a patchwork of matte grey of various shades, and its case and strap are in matte black. The self-winding calibre BR-CAL.302 provides 38 hours of power reserve and is housed in a 42mm ceramic case.
If you look for a watch that pairs seamlessly with your French cuffs, keep looking. Bomberg is for the weekend when you ride your chopper freely down the freeway clad in a black leather jacket, a pair of ripped jeans, a pair of shades and a metal chain tied to your right pocket. It is not too far-fetched to say that the Bolt-68 Automatic Skull Rider “Blackheart” is inspired by this and heavy metal. Studs are aplenty here, ready to strike fear into the heart of your enemy, while the black eyes stare intently signalling its sinister motive concealed within. The neon green scissor-like hand with a Bomberg logo tail points to the second, while a pair of spanners tell the hour and the minute. The 38-hour power reserve is motored by an automatic ETA2671 movement.
Lightning Bolt’s signature model is now available in a one-time-only transparent guise after the watchmaker decided to refit the HUB1242 Unico self-winding movement into a sapphire case for a noble cause. The Big Bang Unico Sapphire Usain Bolt is specifically created for Only Watch, a biennial charity auction of unique timepieces created by the finest brands united for research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. Apart from being housed in a sapphire case, there are some subtle aesthetic differences between this charitable model and the standard yellow gold version. For instance, both the baseplate and the flange are now in yellow gold instead of grey and black. Turning the watch over reveals an “Only Watch” logo emblazoned on the caseback, symbolising hope and courage. The watch will be up for auction in November.
A mainstay of IWC’s offerings, for almost 80 years, the Portugieser has been synonymous with timeless design and watchmaking perfection. This year’s model is a revised version of the Portugieser Chronograph Classic. A subtle shift in design can be observed on the dial where the typical Portugieser railway track-style chapter ring looks even neater than its predecessor without the subdivision of the seconds. Armed with a rose gold case, the hands and indices are dressed to matching colours, along with a rich brown alligator leather strap. The new chronograph continues to be driven by IWC’s tried-and-tested self-winding 89361 calibre with flyback function and 68 hours of power reserve. The minute and hour counters have been united on the same sub-dial.
The Longines Master Collection is an exemplifying illustration of simplicity, elegance and timelessness. Although there is nothing spectacular that will instantly engage your eyeballs, it is one watch that is so inoffensive and versatile that it will appeal to many. There are no sub-dials and plethora of guilloché patterns, all there is, is just a simple but useful date window to remind the wearer of the day at a brief glance. Underneath the blue sunray dial, however, contains all the watchmaking know-how, including a self-winding movement calibre L888.2 with 64 hours of power reserve. The caseback is transparent, thus allowing a glimpse into the case. Paired with a blue extra-long alligator leather strap, the 40mm watch will go smoothly with your polo and dress shirts.
The maison has launched a series of watches in its 4810 collection which takes its name from the height of the highest mountain in Europe, Mont Blanc. The Montblanc 4810 ExoTourbillon Slim comes in two versions but the white gold model shown here is arguably the more understated of the two. Despite containing an ExoTourbillon that completes a full rotation every minute, set against a backdrop of Côtes de Genève motif at the bottom half of the dial, the thickness comes in at 10.14mm. On the top half is an elegant starry night that showcases Montblanc’s savoir-faire. Having undergone the Montblanc Laboratory Test 500 that simulates over 500 hours of real-life wear, this watch can withstand daily wear and tear without a worry. A manufacture calibre MB 29.24 provides 48 hours of power reserve.
One of the oldest German measuring-instrument makers, Mühle-Glashütte boasts 148 years of history and is still firmly family owned, producing only 8,000 to 10,000 watches in a year. However, the first wristwatch was only introduced in 1996. The M1-29-63-NB is an attractive chronograph. Besides the etched second markers on its bezel, there is a tachymeter scale embossed in red numerals on its flange. For time measuring, there are sub-dials counting 60 seconds, 30 minutes and 12 hours. For an added feature, there is also a date window at four o’clock. The chronograph is equipped with a self-winding MU 9413 movement, which has a 48-hour power reserve and a patented “woodpecker neck” regulation that prevents shocks from interfering with the accuracy.
Oris’ first pilot’s wristwatch was made around 1917. It was basically a stopwatch soldered to wire loop lugs. Today, the watchmaker is remembering that landmark wristwatch with the Big Crown 1917 Limited Edition. Available in 1,917 pieces, a tribute to the year, the new 40mm watch has the same onion-shaped crown and Arabic numerals. On top of that, the resemblance also extends to steel hands, domed glass and vintage Oris logo. Beating an Oris Cal 732 calibre, time can only be adjusted when the push piece at two o’clock is pressed. Meanwhile, its caseback is engraved with the original OWC trademark, short for Oris Watch Company, as well as the limited-edition number. The pack includes a travel pouch, with an additional leather strap, and a stainless steel pin buckle.
The Fleurier-based watchmaker debuts the Tonda 1950 Lune at this year’s SIHH, itself a new addition to the Tonda family. Upon first inspection, the 9.6mm-thick Lune looks similar to the Tonda 39 QF that came before it, largely thanks to the “smiley face” date window. But what makes this moonphase watch a particular standout is the fact that it showcases how the moon paints itself in the different hemispheres, which is a considerate move for those celebrating Christmas in mid-summer. Encased in a 39mm stainless steel case is a calibre PF708 that runs on a 48-hour power reserve and keeps the accuracy for the moonphase up for three years, thereafter a recalibration is needed. An individual number is embossed on its caseback despite it not being a limited edition.
Although the Altiplano stole most of the attention during Piaget’s SIHH 2017’s unveiling, one watch didn’t escape our watchful eyes. Launched in mid-2016, the Polo S received plenty of fanfare. This year, the model’s latest iteration comes in a limited edition. The Polo S with a black ADLC bezel, a black dial and a chic black rubber strap is a sports luxe watch. Ideally sized at 42mm and relatively slim at 9.4mm, the new watch is still housed in a familiar cushion-shaped case. The difference now is that the new case is coated with amorphous diamond-like carbon, leading to a superior resistance against scratches when compared to a more standard PVD coating. The in-house 1110P self-winding movement returns 50 hours of power reserve and the watch is limited to 888 pieces.
Aggressive styling runs deep in Rebellion, especially with the capsule-formed Weap-One that rivals any Urwerk watches. If you care to ask, it’s pronounced as “weapon”. But its unusual shape isn’t the only factor that raises the eyebrows because the price tag is just as eye-watering. Limited to only 10 pieces, this avant-garde watch displays time through its rotating dials on both ends of the cylinder and are joint by a 60-second flying tourbillon suspended in mid-air. A skeleton watch pales in comparison and it is a welcomed evolution of its similarly outrageous T-1000 launched in 2010. Size-wise, the tube is 40mm in length and is primarily made of titanium. The watch uses an unnamed Rebellion manual movement with 50 hours of power reserve, made in collaboration with Concepto.
Tiffany & Co.
The American jeweller’s latest effort, Tiffany CT60, takes on the NATO strap, the latter being the trendiest watch accessory of the season. Also available for the first time in a mishmash of black and white, the only design cues that don’t conform to this are the 60-second Arabic numeral above 12 o’clock and the tip of its long second hand. The primarily black dial features brushed finish surrounded by 42mm DLC-treated stainless steel case. Meanwhile, two sub-dials are marked with concentric circles that may send you into a reverie. Instead of a numeral indicating six o’clock, it is replaced by a date window, adding an unexpected twist that enhances the modernity of the watch. Lastly, its self-winding movement yields 42 hours of power reserve.