Despite the cancellation of the Watches & Wonder 2020 trade show (formerly Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie), the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), together with its participating watch brands, presses on with the online launch of their novelties.
August Man Malaysia presents a roundup of the latest releases from Watches & Wonders 2020:
A.Lange & Söhne
A.Lange & Söhne introduced its Odysseus. Combining the iconic Lange outsize date in a classic double aperture with an equally large day display on the opposite side, Odysseus became the cornerstone for the sixth watch family at A. Lange & Söhne in 2019. The exceptional timepiece made its debut exactly 25 years after the inauguration of the first new-era timepiece collection by Walter Lange and Günter Blümlein. Designed for active individuals who wish to wear their Lange watch even in situations when a precision mechanical model would ordinarily be set aside, Odysseus features a prominently sculpted design that emphasises the dynamic personality of the watch. Today, the second model of the family combines a 40.5mm white-gold case with a grey dial. On the dial, white-gold hands and notched baton appliques assure good legibility against the dark background. Similarly, the numerals of the outsize date and the letters of the large-format day display stand out in white, allowing the time to be easily read even in poor light conditions.
Created in 1904 by Louis Cartier for his friend, inventor and aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont, the Santos-Dumont timepiece made its mark with a bold design incorporating a square case and bezel with visible screws. Since then, it has become a timeless icon that never ceases to inspire Cartier with new interpretations, symbolic of “going ever higher, always further.” Today, Cartier is renewing its tribute to the dandy that was Alberto Santos-Dumont, and to the style he embodied, through the Santos-Dumont timepiece. This set of three watches, available in limited engraved series, is offered alongside an exclusive edition of 30 pieces presented in a precious box. Each of them beats to the rhythm of the 430MC mechanical movement with manual winding. The new Santos-Dumont watch reveals a completely reworked design and proportions, with its history, the purity of its lines and the beauty of its mechanical movement making it a watch for connoisseurs.
A poetic design that evokes a sense of travelling in another dimension, setting foot on the moon and losing one’s sense of time and space, the Arceau L’heure de la Lune by Hermès offers a cosmic and dreamlike experience with a unique vision of Earth’s satellite through the simultaneous display of moon phases in both northern and southern hemispheres. Two mobile counters gravitate on a lunar, Martian or Black Sahara meteorite dial, revealing mother-of-pearl moons in step with an exclusive module, coupled with an in-house movement. An offbeat expression of a classic horological complication, the watch also offers an original interpretation of Hermès watchmaking expertise. Encased in white gold or platinum, the mechanics adopt a light, barely-there role. Meteorite inlaid with mother-of-pearl forms a cosmos in which satellite dials float above hemispherical moons. These mischievous displays have swapped cardinal points, with the south above and the north below. A topsy-turvy direction inviting observers to lose their bearings, with their head in the stars.
Following the brief to “design a rugged, weatherproof watch that cuts a fine figure on any occasion,” IWC introduced the Yacht Club in 1967. Driven by a high-precision movement of then technical director Albert Pellaton, who developed the revolutionary pawl-winding system that featured in the company’s first automatic movement, the elegant, sporty automatic timepiece in stainless steel and bracelet soon established itself as one of IWC’s most successful models. In 2010, the company decided to revive the legendary name and integrated the Yacht Club into the Portugieser family. In the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph, IWC chief designer Christian Knoop created a nautical sports watch that met the highest expectations. The 45mm case is ruggedly built and water-resistant to 6 bars. Thanks to the iconic Portugieser design, the watch also cuts a fine figure on dry land. Powered by the IWC-manufactured 89360 calibre, the versatile watch combines stopped hours and minutes, and displays them in a simple-to-read totaliser at 12 o’clock. The flange, which features a quarter-second scale, not only enables precise reading of stop times, but also lends the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph the character of a nautical instrument and its understated sporty style.
Since its launch in 1992, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control collection has been defined by technical rigour and stylistic restraint. In 2020, the watch manufacturer draws inspiration from the classic round watches from the 1950s, such as the Futurematic, PowerMatic and Memovox models, and adds a dash of 21st-century flair, designed for the urban sophisticate.
With its 40mm diameter, outwardly sloping bezel and dynamically curved lugs, the new Master Control case exudes a relaxed and understated elegance. Satin-brushing on the case-sides is complemented by the polished bezel, crowns and lugs. Refined details abound, including bas-relief engravings on the back bezel and a sapphire crystal case-back to reveal the finely finished and decorated movements. On the dials, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s designers have reinterpreted the Maison’s classical codes in a streamlined and modern style, in order to highlight each model’s complications. The applied indexes add refinement, their elongated triangular shape echoed by the Dauphine hands. Uniting the collection, sunray brushing animates the silvery-white background colour, a blue central seconds hand adds a subtle pop of colour and, according to the model, blued subdial hands further accentuate the complications.
In 1950, following the discovery of a new self-luminous substance called Luminor, a harmless tritium-based compound in contrast to its highly radioactive radium-based counterpart, Panerai reinterpreted its iconic cushion-shaped Radiomir design from the 1940s with the new luminous compound, a new crown-protecting bridge, a flat, wider bezel and reinforced wire lugs created from the same block of steel as the case, and launched what would be famously known as Luminor. This year, in celebration of the 70th anniversary of the Luminor, Panerai presents a series of three brilliant, innovative limited-edition models with even greater luminosity in the form of the Luminor Marina, Luminor Marina Carbotech and Luminor Marina Fibratech. Available in 44mm, the special anniversary series marks an important evolutionary step in a development process concerning the mastery of the emission of light which has been carried out by Panerai since the 1940s. Today, it has been further perfected, amplified and enhanced with the use of the latest generation of Super-LumiNova called X1, which provides a longer-lasting and higher degree of luminosity. Taking full advantage of Super-LumiNova X1’s cutting-edge luminosity by emphasising their own personality, the new special editions of Luminor Marina have applied the treatment not only to the dial, but also to the iconic elements of the Luminor case such as the bridge protecting the winding-crown and its locking lever, the flange and the stitching on the strap.