Hosted at Metropol last Saturday, the Dolce & Gabbana S/S 22 fashion show sees a mix between the tradition of lights and a contemporary reinterpretation of the aesthetics of the noughties – an era where globalisation has made it possible to incorporate different trends and styles from across the globe.
Titled the DG Light Therapy, the collection celebrates the riot of influence that has strengthened the Maison’s love for Italian culture and craftsmanship, presenting the many ways this marriage can be expressed through a joyful and light-filled urban key.
For the show, attendees found themselves settled in a dark room, illuminated with kaleidoscopic colours. The lights become giant photographic prints that stand out against a nocturnal background, proposed on silk twill.
The first wave of models emerged from an oscillating platform, dressed in looks defined by exuberant colours and embellishments, reworked and reinterpreted with special techniques. Plating, rubberising, destroyed treatments, and embroidery characterises the garments, while multi-coloured tapes are transformed into fabrics that encapsulate the concept of colour and light.
Channelling the principles of Fatto a Mano, the collection also sees handicraft transformed into art, with newspapers, coloured plastic elements and sequins incorporated into the vacuum fabric of a transparent PVC for a glossy overlay. Through these clear silhouettes, the looks strike conversations about the noughties with a tongue-in-cheek approach.
As an homage to the 2000s, jackets explore new shapes, bold shoulders, and cinched waists with contrasting fabrics. Crystal embroidery completes the style, mirroring the Luminaria light display on the runway.
For shoes, moccasins in laminated, fluorescent and iridescent leather, intertwined with the House logo, epitomise the Maison’s DNA with a sensual appeal. And with all Dolce & Gabbana collections, the Sicilian spirit prevails. Oversized satin jerseys and boxing shorts see an all-over expression of the Italian flag that serves to ground this multicultural light show.
No doubt, the show has reappropriated the past and made it relevant for the present with a healthy dose of tradition and several universal pop culture moments. With this runway being their first full-audience show since the pandemic, the Designer duo was nothing but hopeful for a season symbolic of rebirth and growth. The air of optimism during the show glowed through with an impressively infectious triumph.
(Images: Dolce & Gabbana)