NOW that the inception of the new guards is over and done with, it’s back to business as usual. Following Virgil Abloh’s debut collection under his new appointment, the fashion world turned its attention towards yet another fashion heavy-hitter, Kim Jones, who hosted his first Spring Summer showing in the Paris Fashion week as the new creative director for Dior Men. Starting on a clean slate, Jones wasted no time making his mark on one of the most beloved fashion houses in Paris.
First, the old Dior Homme has been rechristened to become Dior Men – the old Dior Homme Instagram account has since been removed. Jones’ debut show was a bright colourful affair, a departure from his predecessors’, where the backdrops were mostly “dark and sometimes even dour” (complex.com).
A 10-meter-high statue of Christian Dior himself, sculpted from 70,000 flowers by American artist KAWS (Brian Donnelly), was in full view at the center of the circular runway at the Garde Républicaine in Paris. The British designer also commissioned KAWS to create his rendition of the iconic Dior bee motif that was included in the collection.
The show that opened with Prince Nikolai of Denmark draped in a double-breasted white-and-shirting-stripe and sneakers paid homage to the brand’s history. Combining tradition with modern sensibility, he borrowed elements from the archive, reimagined and incorporated them into his inaugural collection including Toile de Jouy patterns borrowed from the wallpaper of the first Dior boutique, jacquards and leathers, and botanical prints for Dior’s love of horticulture, and the Tailleur Oblique suit was a tribute to asymmetric couture dresses in Christian Dior’s Autumn Winter ’50 collection.
Shades of pink and grey, synonymous with the brand, were used throughout the collection as well. The overall aesthetic is a softer, more relaxed Dior Men than before. With a penchant for Japanese culture, Jones also opted for Japanese selvage denim, embroidered in the Boro style. This uniquely complex 17th-century embroidery technique gives clothes extra resistance and strength. Elsewhere, Jones also presented an updated version of the iconic saddle bag with belt attachments and rucksack.
At a time where the class of top creative directors is tasked with transforming every collection into a big showing, lining the front row with the who’s who, and infusing new elements while preserving the brand’s heritage, Jones is well on track to checking all the boxes again.
The SS19 collection is now available at Dior boutiques at Ion Orchard, Marina Bay Sands (Singapore), and Suria KLCC in Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia).