Following the death of Queen Elizabeth II, London Fashion Week marches on. As scores of designers pay tribute to the departed sovereign, they also usher in exciting new designs. Held between 16 September to 20 September 2022, the showcases here will see pieces for the upcoming season of Spring-Summer 2023.
Despite there being many huge sartorial moments (with more to come, surely), several luxury fashion houses backed out of the showcase to mourn the late queen’s passing. An anticipated 110 fashion shows were expected to take over the runway. Still, Burberry, a fashion house that bears the royal warrant, announced that it was cancelling its show within 24 hours of the royal passing.
As London Fashion Week is set to coincide with the national mourning period and the royal funeral, other labels followed Burberry’s footsteps to cancel their shows as well. Raf Simons, in a statement, said this: “We will take this time to respect the legacy of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II and her 70 years on the throne.”
The British Fashion Council (BFC) — the entity that runs London Fashion Week — released a statement on 12 September 2022 indicating that the show would be going on, albeit moderately, with parties cancelled.
Between the UK nationals mourning the loss of Queen Elizabeth II, and fashion designers weaving a fashionable future, here are the highlights of London Fashion Week 2022:
Immersing viewers (both physical and virtual) in a video game arcade straight out of Vegas, Jonathan Anderson hosted his showcase very close to his London flagship store at Wardour Street. The collection, as the designer put it, was his way of contemplating modern life. “Are we falling into our screens, becoming our phones?”
The bizarre collection is the designer’s own take on the state of the current collective consciousness, especially after a tumultuous time that we globally endured. Over at London Fashion Week, the audience witnessed the designer translating that into his medium of fashion. Chunky sweaters worn upside down signified the absurdity of the times; tops made out of old computer keys conveyed our dependency on technology; and a bulbous metallic bubble worn as a dress that captured it all in one go — a distorted reality.
If you’re a lover of all things billowing, then check out what the house of Molly Goddard has in store for you this London Fashion Week. In an explosive showcase of tulle in all its variants, the creative director spun a series of dresses and skirts that feature frilled hems for an extra oomph of volume.
Each silhouette appeared to be soft on its edges, and that was very much on purpose. “I wanted there to be a clunkiness, and a messiness, and to slow down the pace and give everything a bit more breathing room,” she said. And isn’t that just what all of us could use right now?
Over at Nensi Dojaka, the brand turned the femininity dial up to the max with its Spring-Summer 2023 collection. From delicately structured bra dresses to see-through skirts all around, this showcase is a peek into what could be in store in the coming seasons. If this is the case, then the future is diaphanous.
Coupling allure with delicacy, Dojaka refined and elevated the term to be synonymous with refinement. Taking familiar construction and adding her individual twists, the result sees tiny rouleau straps, asymmetrical construction, and delicate trimmings. What you’ll also notice here is Dojaka’s meticulous care in ensuring the ultimate fit — which is tantamount for pieces that could easily be thought of as “flimsy” or “vulnerable”.
Featured and hero images credit: gorunway.com
This story was first featured on Prestige Malaysia