Long tunic-like lengths have made an appearance on the runways from brands as varied as Dior Homme to Rick Owens. Although almost dress length, this silhouette maintains a masculine edge with pairings that see knee-grazing cardigans and jumpers worn under tailored blazers. Dior Homme’s unexpected acid hued print cuts through the rigidity of a slender navy suit. Astrid Andersen’s athletic jumper manages to look tough and approachable with smart colour blocked raglan sleeves that ground the look to the street.
Never have we seen that many menswear designers pushing the agenda for baggy trousers since the 80’s. This season’s baggy trousers are all about tailored volume. Notice how they sit high on the waist, cinching it in. This instantly lengthens the proportions of the legs and lends the overall silhouette a languid elegance. We recommend wearing them with a slight break as seen at Lanvin. Keep things above waist slim and sleek and you’ve got yourself a groovy new look.
Ermenegildo Zegna Couture
The overall has been interpreted in more ways than one this season. Whether padded like a MA-1 bomber at Louis Vuitton or printed all over with zany pop art flowers at Moschino, it remains a challenging piece to pull off. We wonder if designers are thinking about the utilitarian ease of wearing one garment (much like a lady’s dress) or perhaps the snuggly comfort of a onesie. Whatever the cause it’s got us thinking that maybe, just maybe we might consider going to work with an overall worn nonchalantly tied at the waist over our suits as seen as Hermès.
From teal to absinthe, green made a strong presence at the AW 15 shows. Several different hues covered a look at Burberry Prorsum — an olive scarf sat easily with a muted lime shirt and deep hunter green coat without looking too matchy. Berluti’s deep teal leather trench showed that black isn’t the only option when it comes to elegant outerwear. When looking at Tods’ dusty moss coloured jacket, one could only imagine how lovely it would look patinaed with wear.
Look out for the second part of the Autumn/Winter ’15 Trend Report next week