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Men’s Fashion Week: Autumn/Winter ’15 Trend Report #02

Jeremy Gopalan
11 Oct 2015
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NEW BOYS

Alessandro Michele’s appointment not only heralds a new era at Gucci but also a new cast with him. Michele’s dreamy waif is a 180 from the hyper-masculinity that dominated both Tom Ford and Frida Giannini’s time at the label. You could probably describe this new boy as androgynous but lest you forget, it takes balls to rock a frilly chiffon blouse. He is Ziggy Stardust, Mick Jagger and Prince all rolled into one slender package. It’s the attitude that changes the perceptions of say a silk funnel neck top from Duckie Brown or Saint Laurent’s attenuated silhouette. This is a look that requires dedication and a whole lot of swag. Look at it this way, supermodel Iman didn’t marry Bowie for nothing.

 Men's Fashion Week: Autumn/Winter '15 Trend Report #02-am_il_v1001_i_b7790bae0dcfa7c38c13ae5325750f5255_ed29574bc47df8007f1e2e91347620dd70

Saint Laurent

 Men's Fashion Week: Autumn/Winter '15 Trend Report #02-am_il_v1001_i_d1bdbebeda371f4bde4b03fa7372fe6676_e9dc04c882af2311eed578e7ad35b88645

Bottega Veneta

 Men's Fashion Week: Autumn/Winter '15 Trend Report #02-am_il_v1001_i_5cf081d78713d9b8e08f2cb3566a641132_ab2f5ff698a7333cd14ff3eaf938f0f763

J.W. Anderson

 Men's Fashion Week: Autumn/Winter '15 Trend Report #02-am_il_v1001_i_f35deb66aebdfa7346956f669443bdcd60_8a39df4cedf83749abf2fb1c8c6506e287

Duckie Brown

 Men's Fashion Week: Autumn/Winter '15 Trend Report #02-am_il_v1001_i_e2ca81a1f9b2fd84a5919c0b674a080d38_ef3e1d7ab61b7c9677a51ba66ca01a8856

Lanvin

 Men's Fashion Week: Autumn/Winter '15 Trend Report #02-am_il_v1001_i_029ac8fb4edc086c861e7e954414366d50_b03c3932a786bbdd95b9f2f188b39a1661

Gucci

NEW SKINNY

Last fall we saw designers warming up to blankets, wrapping models every which way in constricting cocoons. This year we move to the other end of the spectrum with scarves that are slim and trailing. This can be attributed to the strong 70s’ influence that’s been seething through the season. Skinny scarves, favoured by glam rockers purely as ornamentation, shimmied and moved when they did, adding that bit of drama a performance entails. Saint Laurent’s candy cane striped version is worn looped once around the neck as with Gucci’s vermillion number. Paul Smith drapes his simply over the neck in stripes that echo that of a blown up neck tie. Bottega Veneta plays it subtle by knotting their ultra slim version at the neck like a kerchief, tucking it indifferently under a shirt. 

 Men's Fashion Week: Autumn/Winter '15 Trend Report #02-am_il_v1001_i_14850e320ee88464cb816a551550741167_5126c24c7ef5757d92902270c4f1bd3384

Lanvin

 Men's Fashion Week: Autumn/Winter '15 Trend Report #02-am_il_v1001_i_4ce7678a3228fc8c5b2617367b6a188097_ac3bc1ac04e2bf89a13982e75e1ecf6b57

Bottega Veneta

 Men's Fashion Week: Autumn/Winter '15 Trend Report #02-am_il_v1001_i_9dbe55ef1e8622b86bd9fade3a23294a10_128069b5c171d81b625bd72ac9878dce25

Gucci

 Men's Fashion Week: Autumn/Winter '15 Trend Report #02-am_il_v1001_i_0fc8c0fa54f8ae0cd6bb5c1fb4bafa7187_df96b4e8bd75046e83b938d029a7dbe042

Saint Laurent

 Men's Fashion Week: Autumn/Winter '15 Trend Report #02-am_il_v1001_i_c05c358dd87bc79a2495d3b4e623a8bc19_5c1a2480f70abaa18c54e12efbc8ebac44

Paul Smith

 Men's Fashion Week: Autumn/Winter '15 Trend Report #02-am_il_v1001_i_927c5942baf0d4522e6304110d03240286_f0c5c1ec23fdd7a8b53503f3f76286c714

Burberry Prorsum

SLEEPY JOES

Tomas Maier for Bottega Veneta described his guy as someone who doesn’t think about clothes. It would explain the odd pairings of sweats and a polo neck jumper under a pink corduroy peacoat. It’s the kind of outfit you might spot on someone who’s out for a milk run, but in its carelessness lies its charm. The concept of personal time in our age is truly a luxury and whats more luxurious than silk PJ’s in persimmon and fern coloured stripes from Dunhill paired with a jumper and over coat or Dries Van Noten’s padded coat perfect for the dude who’d never want to get out of bed. The Versace guy struts along in long johns and a hoodie finished in cashmere no less. 

 Men's Fashion Week: Autumn/Winter '15 Trend Report #02-am_il_v1001_i_1dd36ecfc939dc526b1bc84497c14a8269_e294f77b88c8f9a2b3b0ec97a1b5172084

Dolce & Gabbana

 Men's Fashion Week: Autumn/Winter '15 Trend Report #02-am_il_v1001_i_07ca8f3d63b15c96a7ba9130947641bd02_698d55417f56ea6abbbf41ae1628211a38

Dunhill

 Men's Fashion Week: Autumn/Winter '15 Trend Report #02-am_il_v1001_i_874f26b936f23ee9d4485d3bb520110e89_01ef1007298b2d3a013c6d8deeabd74806

Versace

 Men's Fashion Week: Autumn/Winter '15 Trend Report #02-am_il_v1001_i_12c2d9ebbd837939917e62cea30d2f1a63_c0d43dcb8aa3541471f0fe96da3f942084

Dries Van Noten

 Men's Fashion Week: Autumn/Winter '15 Trend Report #02-am_il_v1001_i_ea4d52d3301f5484a6810b98c0cafe5853_7eb7c257a8e8597bdfc8c3dac4cbf57867

Bottega Veneta

 Men's Fashion Week: Autumn/Winter '15 Trend Report #02-am_il_v1001_i_81b4e4c7fe714245491de11d4516355b45_c7f6386646f603058efc03c86ff25d7981

APC

See the first part of the Autumn/Winter ’15 Trend Report

Jeremy Gopalan
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