Véronique Nichanian has been in her position since 1988. If ever there was a necessary reminder that she is the master of her craft, the Hermes Spring Summer 2021 menswear collection of crisp cotton shirts, relaxed trousers and easy knits are reminder enough of her deft touch and precision creativity in cultivating a look book of elevated but not opulent ensembles.
With lockdowns limiting the production values typical of a Maison like Hermes, Nichanian tapped on French playwright and director Cyril Teste. Known for a pioneering production concept he calls “filmic performance”, Teste ably demonstrates the ease and flow of movement and garment during Nichanian’s Hermes SS21 menswear presentation.
Flowing Effortless Style
Capturing the clothes and the essence of Hermès – fabrics, innovation, and shapes – with a respectful insouciance, the grace and fluidity (which would eventually inspire fellow Hermes compatriot Christine Nagel – the Maison’s top perfumer, to deliver H24 into the Hermes men’s universe) is akin to capturing lightning in a bottle, replicating the intimacy and energy of a live fashion show in digital form.
Set in the house’s Pantin workshops, the Hermes Spring Summer 2021 menswear was reflected in the modern glass and concrete: a display of soft unconstructed silhouettes. Straight jackets with double fronts, elegant yet playful shirting with hues of cerulean, forest green and stone stripes – three buttons conveying an air of formality where two buttons might spell contemporary— layered over cotton shirts.
Nonchalance, but a respectful smartness in the guise of loose trousers with a pleat now and then – a symbol of formalwear from the age of our fathers but made contemporary, gathered with drawstring waists, and matched with blazers, zipped shirts, hoodies, knit tops or bomber jackets; Hermes Spring Summer 2021 menswear is a subtle palette of muted greys, white, baby blue and splashes of flouresence parlaying the house’s civilised sophistication of post-pandemic opulence.
The House’s accessories added a zest of flair with tasteful pendants, Slim d’Hermès timepieces, roped belts and leather sandals. Having spoken to Ms. Nagel in Paris via videoconference, we could almost swear that the models were wearing H24 fragrance beneath the garments as well.
(Images: Filippo Fior/Hermes)