Clare Waight Keller’s debut for Givenchy was arguably the most anticipated moment of the spring/summer 2018 shows. While the newly appointed artistic director is more well-known for her work at Chloé, Givenchy is not Waight Keller’s first time designing menswear having had stints at Ralph Lauren and Pringle of Scotland.
After several teasers on social media as well as a complete revamp of the Givenchy site (which is now a fully-integrated e-commerce platform), the combined menswear and womenswear show was finally staged on 1 October 2018. The fashion show took place within the walls of the Palais de Justice, the first time ever the venue was used for such an event and will also be used exclusively by Givenchy for the next three years.
As Waight Keller’s appointment suggested, the new Givenchy man is a departure from Riccardo Tisci’s punk-laced creations. While the aesthetic has changed, it could be said that Waight Keller’s interpretation of the Givenchy man is more in line with Hubert de Givenchy’s vision when he started his first menswear collection back in 1969.
There is an emphasis on strong shoulders (a Hubert de Givenchy favourite) in everything from the structured roomy fit of the double-breasted blazer in the first menswear look to sleeveless shirts cut at the right point to accentuate the shoulders. Tailoring takes a more casual slant and is paired with casual jerseys, denims and leather jackets. The colour palette has a street-ready balance of black and navy with bold infusions of Vermillion red and mint with graphic prints taking the task of creating a hippie rocker vibe yet timeless and elegant.
The new era of Givenchy is different from the previous 12 years under Riccardo Tisci. But with all new eras, it wouldn’t have made sense if there were any similarities. Clare Waight Keller has crafted a vision that is true to Hubert de Givenchy’s idea of Parisian elegance and gentlemanliness with a modern update that’s relatable.
Take a look at the complete menswear collection from Givenchy’s Spring/Summer 2018 fashion show in the gallery above.