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Five Minutes with Diesel’s Creative Director Nicola Formichetti

Darren Ho
06 Sep 2016
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We tend to think of Diesel as a denim label, and it’s true that its roots lie there but the brand is much more than just a good pair of jeans today. A few weeks ago, it launched its latest fragrance, Diesel Bad, with a digital ad campaign video directed by Andrew Dominik and starring actor Boyd Holbrook (of Narcos fame). Today, it’s celebrating 30 years of being present in Japan with a new step that’s revealing of the future: #seebuywear. That’s right: after the runway show this evening, which will be streamed on its site, you can log on to the site and shop the collection that’s being presented by creative director Nicola Formichetti. Or buy it in store if you happen to be in Tokyo the following day (there’s no confirmation at the moment that the collection will be available in all Diesel stores around the world). 

At the launch of the Renaissance 55+5 book earlier this year

According to Luigi Mezzasoma, the CEO and president of Diesel Japan, it’s taken a while to implement this concept, which a few other labels around the world have started or are in the midst of doing so. It’s a radical change, and he believes it can apply only to a portion of the collection at any one time. Which makes this event in Japan ideal for kicking off the instant retail experience, since it’s based on 5 capsule collections that will be revealed this evening. Two are capsules developed by Formichetti for Diesel, and three are collaborations with other labels (N. Hoolywood, Porter and Yuko Koike, an ITS 2015 winner of the Modateca Deanna award). 

This is also the first time that Diesel has ever done any sort of collaboration with other brands, so we grabbed a few minutes with creative director Nicola Formichetti to find out why, and to discover everything from his favourite music to . Here are a few key bits from our conversation. 

On the instant retail experience:
This year is a very exciting one for Diesel. It’s our 30th year here, that’s important for Diesel in Japan and this event is something very special because you can buy the collection straightaway. It’s in the store and online. It’s our first attempt at a ready-to-retail concept, you know, see-buy-now, whatever it’s called. Which feels really right for a brand like us. 

On his love for Japan: 
I come here every two months. I mean, I consider myself more Japanese than Italian. It’s my home and it’s great we get to do this here. 

On his own style: 
I’m really more focused on dressing other people than myself. I do everything in my Jogg Jeans, and if I have an event, of course I dress up but otherwise it’s just a standard uniform for me. 

On product innovation: 
You know, denim jeans are denim jeans. How can we make it modern, how can we make a jacket more modern? That’s the kind of product design that I love. It’s about fabrics and new technology and details. 

On the public’s interest in fashion: 
I think today’s fashion isn’t just about fashion anymore. Maybe we’re moving towards something else. I don’t know. People are doing things that are interesting but fashion used to be almost a religious movement, you know, but today it’s so much a part of our life that it’s not just about fashion anymore. It’s music and literature and dance and art. It’s not a specific one thing. 

We’ll have more photos and video of the event this evening. To find out more of what Formichetti told us, check out the October issue of AUGUSTMAN. 

fashion
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menswear
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Darren Ho
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