Breitling has hit a horological sweet spot. The reveal of the new Heritage Premier Datora modelled on its namesake collection from the 1940s, is perhaps the brand’s strongest showing for Watches & Wonders 2021. An old-school combination of chronograph with triple calendar, Breitling has begun to encroach upon the aesthetic territory that Patek Philippe became known for. Even if it’s a classic, vintage look, the Breitling Premier Heritage Datora unveils a brand-new, manual-wind B25 calibre.
Inspired by the inventive spirit of Breitling’s founders, the new Premier Heritage Collection is among the brand’s most elegant and refined timepieces, hence it is not a statement of irony when we claim that this watch could have been something made by Patek Philippe (albeit at slimmer proportions, more on that in a minute). The Breitling Heritage Premier Datora been designed for the modern and discerning man with impeccable taste and so one would surmise, it already tickles the fancy of August Man.
The steel variant of the Datora with salmon-dial is especially handsome: The chronograph and triple calendar combination is very much iconic of mid-20th century watches where brands like Angelus and Patek made a name for themselves, providing ample evidence of the timeless appeal of good vintage design. Aesthetically speaking, the layout is fairly sublime as well when you
consider the numerous indications, which can typically camp a watch face with a myriad of subdials and totalisers. The classical 3-6-9 with month and day window layout for this complication, gives it a sumptuous, symmetrical appearance with optimal legibility.
“This heritage-inspired design with a stylish modern twist embodies some of Breitling’s most famous innovations, and revives Breitling’s legacy of inventing the modern chronograph. This truly is our heritage revived,” – Georges Kern.
Unlike the other new Breitling chronographs offered for Watches & Wonders 2021, the manual-wind B25 calibre isn’t based on the brand’s B01 movement (Tudor has been using variation of Breitling’s B01 since 2017), instead, they opted for the a modular development co-created with Concepto, a specialist movement maker in La Chaux de Fonds.
What Breitling appears to have done, is taken a workhorse Valjoux 7750 and modified the cam-actuated instrument into a column wheel chronograph while adding Concepto’s calendar module on top. This technical decision results in the Breitling Premier Heritage Datora from being easily the most handsome new novelty of 2021 to one that is simply among the top few contenders – not bad given that the brand’s modern raison d’etre happens to be sportive timepieces. COSC certified and retailing for US$12,950 for the stainless steel variant, this is more of a nitpick rather than a criticism, beyond this price point, you’re in Jaeger-LeCoultre territory after all.
New Breitling Premier Heritage Datora Price & Specs
Case 42mm x 15.35mm in stainless steel or rose gold with 100 meters water resistance
Movement Breitling Manufacture Caliber B25 with Concepto calendar module and 48 hours power reserve
Price US$12,950 for steel; US$25,650 for red gold