La Chaux-de-Fonds-based watchmaker Corum has always been an innovator in the realm of case design. It counts collections such as the Golden Bridge and the Bubble as some of the many unique case shapes that has enchanted collectors. While those collections may border on dressy, Corum’s most sporty range, the Admiral proves that the brand is capable of creating iconic shapes on both sides.
The Admiral has always been an icon. It was first unveiled in 1960, just five years after Corum was established and was the brand’s foray into watches intended for use at sea. What makes the Admiral special is its large and multi-faceted case shape that reveals several dimensions to the watch, 12 to be exact.
This year, Corum takes the Admiral up to a new level of special with the new Admiral 45 Squelette.
Cutting Down to the Basics
Skeletonisation has always been an important aspect of watchmaking. In order to show off the inner workings of a timepiece, Corum has had to rework the movement. The Calibre CO 082 has had its bridges completely open-worked, then coated with an anthracite grey surface that allows for contrasting elements against the movement’s nickel silver gear trains and the other brass components in the watch.
Perhaps the most unique element of the new Admiral 45 Squelette is the interesting date disc that hasn’t been designed in the traditional sense. Instead of painting or engraving the Arabic numerals on sapphire discs, Corum decided to individually blank each numeral “by means of precise electrical discharge machining”. This process made it possible to have thin numerals that don’t require support and can be geared into position by a transmission system. Because the numerals are so thin, they allow for a less obstructed view of the in-house calibre from the dial. It’s never easy, of course, to read a date on a skeletonised watch. To compensate, Corum placed a solid-coloured aperture at six o’clock to contrast with the numerals, making it more legible.
For all the design elements in the Admiral 45 Squelette, it’s surprising then that Corum managed to keep the watch water resistant to 300 metres.
Standing Out in Style
The full collection of the new Corum Admiral 45 Squelette sees six models in total, each limited to 288 pieces. Three of the watches are in natural titanium with the other three decked out in matte black PVD. With the bright colour contrasts from the date discs, each watch stands out, in the same way the unique 12-sided case shape immediately catches the eye. It may look like a bold collection but it’s certainly one that fits in well with the ethos of Corum.
Learn more about the new Corum Admiral 45 Squelette at corum-watches.com