Men like watches for the same reason women like expensive bags or jewellery: bragging rights. I have to admit, we tend to be a little more discreet when it comes to showing off wrist swag. There’s also a slight difference how we flash it. It isn’t just about price, but also a cult status or coolness value. Which is probably why Tudor has gotten such great ticks at the BaselWorld 2015 fair. The North Flag, its star of the year, hides another gem, the MT 5621 calibre. Here are a few reasons why this movement is definitely worth investing in, and why it’s so significant for the brand and Tudor aficionados.
1. It’s the first in-house Tudor calibre.
Tudor has been considered the sibling brand to Rolex for decades, perhaps, but since CEO Philippe Peverelli joined the company in 2010, it’s been making plans to step out of its brother’s shadow. In that same year, Tudor began work on its own in-house movement, building the MT5621 with new movement demands such as the instant date jump and precise time setting with stop seconds. That makes sense, but at the same time, it’s also adopting new technology such as silicon in its own in-house calibre.
2. The North Flag is a refresh of a classic Tudor.
While the Heritage series have been re-issues of Tudor timepieces, the North Flag is a resurrection of a classic: the Tudor Oysterdate Prince Ranger 2. However, it’s been thoroughly refreshed, with new stylistics, such as yellow accents on the dial, a ceramic ring below the stainless steel bezel and a sapphire caseback to reveal the movement, while keeping essentials such as the integrated lugs on the case. There’s also a power reserve indicator, for the approximately 70 hours of energy the mainspring stores. It’s also designed to be incredibly durable, given the context of the video which you’ve seen.
3. It’s a chronometer.
Tudor’s own facilities are separate from Rolex in Bienne, but it’s no less rigorous in its demands for quality. To prove that, it’s sent the calibre 5621 for testing at the COSC, so as to ascertain its performance. And no surprise, but it makes the mark. Given that the North Flag is only a hair higher in price over Tudor’s average timepieces, and bears an in-house chronometer, we’ll say that’s already worth the buy.
4. It stands on its own.
Tudor is often remembered as the sib to Rolex, and it’s spent a good number of years trying to change that image. The establishment of its own in-house movements – the MT5621 with power reserve indication and MT5612 without – allows it to stand on its own. In terms of finishng, both on the movement and the watch, the styles of its design are Tudor-inspired. The use of a sand-blasted treatment on the movement, giving it that rugged matte style and complemented with polished angles, adds to the unusual style and the idea of the North Flag being a highly adventure-driven timepiece. That’s cool.