In our earlier episode on understanding and appreciating suits, we learnt about suiting construction and what you need to pay attention to when it comes to both tailored and off-the-rack pieces.
This time round, we’ve taken a closer look at style and habits of suit-wearing, and what situation calls for what sort of suit.
The lapels of a suit define its style as well as formality. We didn’t show the Nero collar, which is a close cousin of the Mandarin collar and both are worn as formalwear in China and India. But the standard suit lapels you commonly see would be the notch, peak and shawl. The first is the most often seen, and it points downwards, while the peak lapel is so named because it has a peak at the top of the lapel.
This is in fact a tuxedo faux pas, a notch lapel with a tux. But then, he’s Connery. As Bond.
Peak lapels are considerably more formal than the standard notch lapel, and are part of the style of standard black tie wear. The rounded shawl lapel, which is a derivative from the smoking jacket, is often used in tuxedos today but in fact is considered lounge wear. However, a shawl lapel works for most black tie formal tuxes, unless you’re meeting royalty.
Image by Ermenegildo Zegna
Venting, buttons and pocket are all aspects of suiting you should be familiar with, along with buttoning a suit. For the record, we’d state that we always try not to button the last button on a suit jacket, though it’s not terribly wrong to do so. It just doesn’t look as sharp or smooth.
Catch the video to find out all about suiting part 2.
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