During its illustrious history, the Calatrava virtually became synonymous with a “slim, elegant dress watch”. Given its legacy, the Calatrava is strongly anchored in Patek Philippeʼs history and while it does not enjoy the catcher of its Nautilus or Aquanaut brethren yet, it would be irresponsible if not outright disrespectful to describe it as an “entry-level model” because the Calatrava models contain everything that defines the Manufacture and makes it so reputable. If anything, the Calatrava is emblematic of the quiet elegance of the brand because the collection is remarkable for their restraint. The Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 6007A debuted in 2020 as a commemorative edition celebrating the brand’s new headquarters in Geneva, heralded a future and a perspective for a very “un-Calatrava” Calatrava. In this sense, the 21st century (and on its 181st birthday, no less) continues to be defined by three new ref. 6007G variants launched this year, also taking a somewhat different and surprising approach, with vivid yellow, red or sky blue highlights. The new Calatrava 6007G cases are fully polished white gold (the 6007A was steel), with a wide bezel and a domed sapphire crystal. The gentle curve of the case makes its 40 mm by 9.17 mm thin proportions immensely wearable yet somehow when joined with the rhythmic geometry ‒ an embossed “carbon” design seen dead centre of the ebony black dials ‒ is emphasised by three types of finishing. What results is that it endows the Calatrava with a visual illusion of being an oval rather than a perfectly round watch when seen in the metal. It’s not a chronograph, but the outer minute track of the new 6007G is reminiscent of tachymeter rails found on racing chronographs, joined with applied luminous Arabic numerals. The overall aesthetic of the modern Calatrava departs from its historical counterpart’s usual straightforward sophistication while still retaining its wrist presence. The date window appears in place of the three o’clock numeral, while a thin grooved ring surrounds the centre of the dial with colourful arrows pointing inwards towards a stamped carbon pattern at each hour. Touches of yellow (6007G-001), red (6007G-010) or sky blue (6007G-011) on the counters and seconds hands, as well as the stitching and lining of the black calfskin straps with embossed “carbon” pattern, adding to the dynamism of the design. A little nit-pick but the sporty new design of the Calatrava is not matched with improved water resistance; instead, it retains its traditional 30 metres depth rating. The leather straps with a carbon motif imprinted on them and contrast stitching to match the colour of the dial add to the edgier vibe.
The self-winding calibre 26- 330 S C with date at three o’clock and stop seconds beats at the heart of the fully polished white gold case, distinguishing them from the steel 6007 commemorative edition which still relied on the legacy calibre 324.
CALATRAVA 6007G PRICE + SPECS
Case 40 mm x 9.17 mm thin white gold with 30 metres water resistance Movement Automatic calibre 26‑330 S C with 45 hours power reserve Price S$50,400 (Images: Patek Philippe)